Marian Burros' Plum Torte

Doesn't that look glowing and warm and comforting and delicious? I thought so, too. And yet. I'd better tread carefully here, because apparently the recipe I made last night is the recipe to end all recipes. Reprinted every single year in the New York Times for 15 years running, or something like that. Let me tell you a bit about it.

Marian Burros, a longtime writer for the NY Times food section, first published the recipe for Plum Torte in 1981. Every year thereafter, because of reader demand, the food section would reprint it. A few years ago, the New York Times printed it one last time and exhorted readers to cut out and laminate the recipe: they would be printing it no longer. Marian Burros ended up immortalizing it in a few of her cookbooks, and it's available all over the internet, in case you weren't subscribing to the NY Times in those days. And last week, when Marian published an article about autumnal cooking, the Times decided to offer the recipe to accompany the online edition. So I felt I just had to make it. Nevermind the luscious asian-pear crisps asking longingly to be made from the L.A. Times, or the fact that an equally good-looking apple-phyllo dessert was in Marian's article. The Plum Torte was calling my name and so I answered.

I figured it would give me a chance to make one last dessert with plums before the beginning of fall. I'm going apple-picking in the Hudson River Valley this weekend, so there will be enough apple dishes coming in future weeks. I plucked twelve shiny Italian plums from the greenmarket earlier this week and last night got down to business. Very quick business, I might add. The batter is simple as can be - you simply cream butter and sugar, then sift in a small flurry of flour, salt and baking powder. This thick batter is poured (or rather, smeared, since it was pretty stiff) into a springform pan. The layer of batter seemed surprisingly thin to me.

I halved and pitted the plums, and arranged them in a circular pattern on the batter.

I stirred together cinnamon and sugar, which then got liberally sprinkled over the plums.

The pan went into the oven, where it was supposed to bake for 40 to 50 minutes. I set about making dinner for Barbara (a beet salad and spaghetti with pesto, which by the way, I should have mentioned yesterday, benefits greatly from the addition of a lump of butter added to the bowl of sauce and cheese. Lest my Italian forefathers and mothers turn over in their grave, I say, I read this in a book! An Italian book! So there. Go back to resting in peace.).

When I checked the torte after 50 minutes, it still looked pretty pale on top, and the skewer came out with lumps of raw batter still attached. So I closed the oven door, and we went out to the patio for dinner. I completely forgot about the cake (note to self: when eating outside, remember that smells from kitchen cannot migrate through closed doors). In the middle of a particularly interesting point that Barbara was making about something or other (I was paying attention, don't you worry), I smacked my head and ran back inside to the oven.

At this point, the cake had been baking for and hour and 15 minutes, at least. I yanked open the door and sighed with relief.

The cake was fine. We let it cool for a while, then cut in. Maybe it's because it was still warm and some cakes benefit from a day of being left alone. Maybe it's because I had such high expectations because of all the hype surrounding the recipe. Maybe it's because I grew up eating a different kind of plum torte with a yeasted base (that looks more like this) and has much more structure and character and lets the fruit shine through more. But (covers her head with protective hands) I didn't really like this. My roommate did! And Barbara did! And my coworkers (as usual - is there anything they won't eat?) did! But I didn't. It was too sweet, too flat, too flabby.

It wasn't bad. But I probably won't make it again. There, I said it. If anyone has had more success with this, will you tell me about it?

Comments

[Nic]

I almost made the torte after reading the glowing reviews, but I have to say that the yeasted version looks so delicious!

[Ulrike]

Glad I don't like plums or damsons:)

[shuna]

Because those plums are grown to be turned into prunes they have a very high sugar content without the usual balance of tart/acidity that other plums do.

I find that when working with French plums I like to insert some of my own tartness quality. Lemon zest, orange juice, sherry vinegar, reduce the sugar etc.

[radish]

this looks really beautiful. i've not baked all summer as it's unbearably hot in my apartment as it is, but now that the weather in new york is cooling down, this might be a fun thing to make!

[Angie]

As usual, I like the photos that accompany your post. That batter looks so odd. And the last photo--at first I thought you had turned the slice upside-down as a symbol of protest!

I also tend to prefer tarts to tortes because, as you mentioned, it showcases the fruit more.

[Molly]

Beautiful torte, Luisa! I'm sorry that it didn't hit the spot, though. I've made this recipe many, many times, and it's always a huge hit--although I do recall one go-round when it came out too sweet. Hmph. At any rate, I make a couple of slight changes to the recipe as it's printed: I use about half the sugar topping called for; I always use a 9" pan (so the cake is a little taller than with a 10"); and I experiment with other fruits, such as apricots. There's something about their sweet-tartness that goes well with the buttery, simple cake.

But that said, m'dear, I've never tried the plum torte you grew up with. It looks luscious! There's an Eastern European bakery at my local farmers' market that makes something very much like it (they call it "kolach"), and now that I'm so inspired, I may to give it a go this Saturday!

[Luisa]

Molly - those changes certainly sound like they would make a difference. Perhaps I'll try again sometime (the photo of the cake on your site is just gorgeous). And if you manage to recreate the "kolach" you'll have to let me know!

Angie, thank you so much. I laughed at the upside-down slice idea - very anarchic, or something... ;)

Nic - if I ever get my hands on a yeasted recipe, I'll make it and post it and let you know.

Shuna - the idea of adding lemon is a good one, you can never have too much lemon flavor, in my opinion!

Ulrike, the Apfelkuchen on your blog looks just wonderful, I love those high, fruit-studded cakes.

Radish - isn't it nice now that fall has finally arrived and New York isn't so stinky and hot anymore? Let me know if you like the torte when you make it.

[Pru Borland]

I haven't made this for years, but I always thought it was delicious. The original NYT clipping in my files says to bake for one hour in a 9" spring form. I am anxious to try the "Plum Crumble" that she now proposes as an alternate. Can you translate the recipe for the yeasted version for us?

[Pru Borland]

Oh, and another thing I just noticed, having clicked on the recipe link. The original recipe in my files calls for 1 cup (not 3/4 cup) of sugar. Of course the modern trend is to use less. And I see now that she is waffling about the size of the pan ("8, 9 or 10"). I actually don't own a 9" springform; mine are 8" and 10"; I think I've always used the 10" one, which results in a thinner torte. It's these little details that can make such a difference!

[radish]

Thanks! And I'll definitely let you know. This weekend was all about running to and from wedding things for a friend, but I did manage to make a moroccan-ish chicken stew, which I'll post about later today. I can't wait to make the torte - it looks so perfect for the season!!

[Luisa]

Pru - I do think using a smaller pan would result in a nicer cake with taller slices. And I think the full cup of sugar was too much. Or maybe I didn't have enough plums? Oh well. I, too, want to try that crumble, which looks fantastic, especially with the ginger.
I'll gladly translate the yeasted version I posted in the link - you're motivating me to actually try it, too! ;)

[Brett]

From the look of the final product, I wonder if the torte would come out better as an upside down cake, with the fruit put in the pan first, cut side up (and omit the sugar-cinnamon topping, which I would imagine would be better used in an apple torte, as cinnamon would overwhelm the relatively mild prune plums). The plums may caramelize a bit, too, which would decrease the sweetness. And maybe the plums would be showcased better. Just some random thoughts.

[Pru Borland]

Sorry if I am beginning to monopolize this section. Just today I got a wonderful book from the library: "Off the Shelf" by Donna Hay. On p 155 there is a recipe with photo for "Peach and Raspberry Tart" that is of this genre; just the same, in fact, except that it calls for 1 1/2 c of flour (instead of one cup). The fruit is 2 peaches (sliced, cut into thin wedges) and 5 oz raspberries. The gorgeous photo shows a very firm looking creation bursting with fruit; somehow it doesn't sink, and I am guessing that the extra flour is part of the magic. I intend to try it.

[Luisa]

hi Pru - the cake sounds totally yummy and that extra half cup of flour really could make the difference. If you make it, please let me know how it goes! Thanks for letting me know about the recipe, I just might have to go check it out myself now ;)

[c(h)ristine]

Wow--thank you for this write up! I found you via a google search for Marion Burros' recipe. I was interested in how it would stand up to a almond-plum buckle I recently made and posted on our food blog. Very cool site, too.

[claudia]

hiya - please please try the rustic plum cake from cooks illusatrated aug. '08 edition. i just blogged about it and girl.... it was WONDERFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[June Gelb]

I have made this torte regularly every year - just a the plums come roaring into the supermarket and the holidays are around the corn.
It is gobbled up with glee...and it is SO easy to make.
Sprinkling the top with lemon juice, cinnamon and a little sugar gives it a special fillip.
I couldn't laminate Marion's last NY Times issue, so I've made copies of my very brown, curled-up coy.
Try it! You'll love it!

[annie]

I've been making this torte for years as we grow the little Italian plums that work so well in this recipe! It's a simple cake -- and quick to make -- much like quickbread in principal. A few ingredients; quick to whip up; great with coffee or warm out of the oven for dessert. Don't expect more than that and you'll be pleased with the results!

[Karen]

I really appreciate knowing when a cake or other thing seems too sweet. Maybe my tastebuds are like yours. Appreciate the heads up!

[Tina]

Came across your website after making copies of the New York Times Plum Torte recipe(I've gone through several). I make this torte every Labor Day, and have ever since it first appeared. I don't know what you did wrong, but BABY, BELIEVE ME, this is the GREATEST THING TO HAPPEN TO PLUMS SINCE...I don't know what. When my daughter came home from college one winter, I made one for her and she cried. There is just SOMETHING ABOUT THIS RECIPE. Try again! It's the ultimate comfort food. Only the original version, please. I guess it's just a matter of taste, though. I loathe the kind of plum torte you mentioned--the yeasty kind. So, what can you do! But only make it or eat it in cool to cold weather. It just ain't a 90-degree day kind of thing.

[vincenT SILVA]

i made this the other day and everyone liked it. i am making it again this morning for a dinner i am having tonight. oh, well.

[Hardboiledegg]

Yes letting it set to let the juices redistribute would be good. I even made it with cherries then topped it with the plum. You never know about plums they may be tart-- it looks as if you did not use red plums I even made it with Pluiots anyway I use extra cinnamon ---one can never use too much cinnamon!! I make it often. however most recently treated it as cup cakes to serve co-workers at my place of employment. Oh course they appreciate any home made goody I bring in but this generated many compliments Don't give up give it another try do not burn it though maybe your oven is off temp as to the long baking time???